Well well well, technology has foiled me again, and you, dear friends, are going to have to settle for "First Impressions" second time 'round. Erik and I arrived in Chernivtsi on a (nice) rattling pre-WWII propellor plane, and I couldn't decide what most deserved my attention, the loose screws and shaky wings appearing through the window, or the fur-clad beauties lounging with bottles of cognac and cigarettes in the seats next to us.
But I'm jumping ahead of myself. I have skipped over entirely the madness of Kyiv! Its easy to forget how useless you can feel unable to ask for a simple glass of water (voda). Somehow, through divine intervention perhaps, Eric managed to reach into the depths of his brain and assemble the pieces of Ukrainian/Russian he has learned so far to get us through the streets and metro systems. I don't know what to say so much about Kyiv - fast, elegant, edgy, sexy. There is a constant movement that has a mind of its own - trolley buses squealing past, dirty windows and crumbling paint with the faces of stunning Slavs staring out. Slick-looking characters hover on the corners sipping coffees and glancing discreetly at the high-heeled fashionistas strutting past. We have to return here once we're less frantically lost and can read, rather than guess the street signs. Can't wait!

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